Heart of DeBeers: Conflict Diamonds and Kanye

May 5, 2009 · 3 comments

Put this video on play in the background as you read the post:

It says a lot about a post when Kanye’s involved right off the bat.

I just saw Blood Diamond.  I thought it was a great movie, and obviously a great segue into talking about the worldwide diamond industry.

There have already been a lot of important things said about this movie and about conflict diamonds.  Here‘s one.  Here‘s another.  And here’s a third.  For those not in the know, conflict diamonds are stones purchased to fuel civil war in Africa or other hotspots.  In return for money, guns, and ammunition to fight civil wars, smugglers sell diamonds into the prestegious houses in Amsterdam and London.  I hate how the world works in Blood Diamond (according to stuff that I’ve read, close to real life, as well.)  I love how clearly it shows economic trends.

Any country that has natural resources falls prey to what is called the natural resource curse.  I wrote a little bit about this in my undergraduate economic honors thesis with resepct to Russia and its oil industry.  Any country that has an abundance of natural resources, as Sierra Leone does, tends to have less economic growth than countries with more resources.  The reason behind this is that the government often becomes corrupt and mismanages the resources.  Additionally, price volatility comes into play.  Natural resources, particularly petrolum, are always in price flux.  When countries base their revenue models on these resources, they tend to collapse, as Russian oil prices are doing now.

What was shown in Blood Diamond is the mismanagement by the government, but not the price instability.  The reason that diamonds always cost so much is, that, as DiCaprio’s character explained, the jewlery houses hoard them to artificially inflate demand in a classic case of a centrally-planned industry economy.  The reality is that there are more diamonds in the world than stars in the sky.  This was known as early as the 1980s, when Epstien wrote a huge article about it in The Atlantic.

“The creation of the idea that diamonds are rare and valuable, and are essential signs of  esteem is a relatively recent development in the history of the diamond trade.”

De Beers proved to be the most successful cartel arrangement in the annals of modern commerce. While other  commodities, such as gold, silver, copper, rubber, and grains, fluctuated wildly in response to economic  conditions, diamonds have continued, with few exceptions, to advance upward in price every year since the  Depression. Indeed, the cartel seemed so superbly in control of prices — and unassailable — that, in the late  1970s, even speculators began buying diamonds as a guard against the vagaries of inflation and recession. “

As a result of the negative press the movie has gotten and the movement of conscious consumers towards other diamonds options, such as not diamonds, diamond demand is finally starting to come down.

“This is being supported by diamond jewellery sales – particularly in the US which accounts for half the world’s diamond jewellery sales – but understandably, there is some nervousness about the key buying period coming up between Thanksgiving and Christmas,” he said. “However, there will be some gradual increases in supply over the next four years. This may see some price decline from next year ranging from 10% to 20% in 2009 as production levels rise and market demand remains low around current growth rates compared to 8.5% in recent years.” About $76 billion worth of diamonds are sold at the retail level each year.

Seventy-six billion dollars worth of diamonds.  That’s as much as 45% of Obama’s stimulus package.  How much of those diamonds are purchased conflict-related?  The Kimberly process, a certification process put in place to guard against buying conflict diamonds.  But how effective is it?  Some jewllers claim that conflict diamonds only now number 1% of total cut diamond sales.  That’s only $760 million dollars a year.   It is working to some extent, though:

Rough diamonds worth $800,000 were reportedly seized by customs officials two weekends ago at JFK Airport, after the jewelers carrying the stones failed to produce the required documentation for the gems. Two U.S. jewelers, who arrived from Sierra Leone by way of London, were caught with 28 rough diamonds that weighed a total of 1,200 carats, according to a report by NBC New York. The diamonds were headed for Brentwood, New York, the report noted.

But really, after seeing the movie, I have to wonder how effective paperwork is in the Third World.  Agencies fail there all time where survival instincts kick in.  It’s one thing to be looking at a research paper in New York.  It’s another to be in the diamond mines in Africa when you have a family to feed and a gun to your head.  Us white people always think we can change the world.  We donate to Kiva, we aspire to belong to the World Bank, and we pass around e-mails that warn friends and family not to buy this or that.  But honestly, how much are we doing?

Case in point: Me.  I was always against conflict diamonds.  I was against diamonds, period, because I am a Liberated Woman who does Not Need a Man for Anything*.  Actually, I wanted a recycled 1920s diamond.  I honestly did not want anything that costs more than $500 because I lose jewelry like the Bubonic plague.  Case in point?  I’ve already lost two wedding rings: my mom’s (first grade show-and-tell), and my own (at the gym.)  I’ve also lost countless necklaces and bracelets.    So, needless to say, I was extremely nervous about having an engagement ring.  When the time came, though, I started wanting a diamond.  Because, obviously, everyone had one.  And oh wow I would look good.  Lucky for me, Mr. B is quite a progressive guy.  Not only did he get me a conflict-free certified diamond, but it was also processed in Israel.  It makes it that much more meaningful for me every time I look at it that Moshe or Ze’ev  processed it in T”A just for me.

Back to the point.  We all say we don’t like conflict diamonds on principle.  But really, it’s impossible to implement, and until American women (myself included) stop being brainwashed by advertising.  And that’s really easy to say, too.  Because we all think we won’t be, and then we are.  So, really, I guess the first baby step is awareness.  Stop buying into Tiffany’s.  And if you have to have diamonds?  Buy Canadian.   Because until demand falls, it’ll all just be a huge game of numbers.

*except opening pickle jars

{ 3 comments… read them below or add one }

Shefaly May 6, 2009 at 7:57 AM

If you hold a pickle jar (assuming lid is tightly closed) under a stream of hot water in the kitchen, the differential thermal expansion of metal versus glass means you yourself can open it without needing help from a man. Opening a jar is about a strong wrist movement, not strong forearms :-) Which if one has, it does not hurt.

Now to the point of this post: I am interested in knowing what % of diamon buyers buy only for special occasions and what % for fashionable purposes (hence whose purchases are the ones marketers are aiming for, really). In India, where homes and bank lockers hold many Fort Knoxes worth of gold, studded jewellery is typically valued at smaller prices (because 22K gold cannot be used for setting stones and 18K is needed which means the gold in a ring is mixed) than pure gold. So in weddings, when most jewellery is purchased in large quantities, there is a preference for plain gold over studded jewellery.

Is there therefore a scope for changing this conversation about diamonds from one about beauty or showy-offy-wealth to one about investment, albeit one you can wear (which you can’t do with a Van Gogh)?

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Vicki May 7, 2009 at 9:32 AM

Shefaly,

Thanks for the jar tip. I will now be man-less forever.

You raise a great point in fashionable versus special occasions and investment. It’s a complaint I hear very often from South Asian friends that there is a LOT of bling constantly exchanged during weddings. However, from my understanding, it is much more important than jewlery in the West. If I want to (knock on wood) get divorced, I most likely have equal legal power and can get back on my feet. Women in South Asia can’t as much, and rely on gold to cash in as a security blanket. In that case, it’s more than a luxury, it’s a necessity. And with the rate the global economy is going at, maybe we all need to buy more gold ;) .

So, let’s change the scope of the discussion. Any commenter takers want to weigh in?

Reply

Michael Cohen May 19, 2009 at 8:53 PM

DCLA has seen an alarming increase in the number of treated diamonds being submitted as natural diamonds to the laboratory for certification.

http://dcladiamondexchange.com.au/

It should first be said that diamond treatments are neither good, nor intrinsically bad in and of themselves. There is nothing wrong with buying a treated diamond, provided that the treatment is fully disclosed and that you pay the appropriate price for the diamond. Because of their lower cost and value, treated diamonds can allow a person to buy a diamond that appears to be of a higher quality than it truly is.

However, too often the presence of such diamond treatments is concealed. Whether this deception is by intent or negligence, such concealment is tantamount to fraud.

Not only does artificially treating a diamond significantly reduce its value, but most diamond treatments are unstable and reversible. For this reason, all internationally accepted rules for diamond grading forbid the certification of treated diamonds. An extremely disturbing discovery just recently in the DCLA Laboratory was that of a coated diamond accompanied by a certificate from a supposedly legitimate Australian ‘laboratory’.

Members of the diamond industry have a responsibility to consumers to convey accurate and transparent information, and each individual that handles a diamond as it moves down the diamond pipeline from the mines should be held accountable for making known any treatments that a diamond has undergone.

It is deceptive and unfair to fail to disclose treatment of a diamond when it has a significant effect on a diamond’s value. In its pursuit of consumer protection, DCLA is offering a ‘Diamond Amnesty’ for diamond owners Australia-wide – any diamond brought in with its matching diamond grading certificate will be verified for grading accuracy and tested to ensure that it is natural and free of treatments. This service will be provided free of charge.

Diamond Intelligence Briefs: http://www.diamondintelligence.com/magazine/magazine.aspx?id=7833

National Jeweler Netork: http://www.nationaljewelernetwork.com/njn/ys/search/article_display.jsp

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